Buying Your Own Dive Equipment: What Should You Buy and When?

I have owned my own dive equipment even prior to undertaking my Open Water certification. Before embarking on a 6-month volunteer stint in Mexico to train as a Dive Master, I had experienced a single dive in the Maldives. The prerequisites for this adventure were to have already completed my Open Water course.

Armed with limited knowledge and some quick Google searches, I arrived at my Open Water course in Plymouth, UK, equipped with a complete set of scuba gear. Through the course and subsequent 6-month internship in Mexico, most of this gear was replaced with more suitable equipment for the job. Transitioning to Australia to work as a guide on a liveaboard, I largely retained that second set of gear. However, my journey took a sharp turn when I embarked on a one-year contract as a Dive guide in Iceland, where dive temperatures plummeted from 82°F to 36°F. Within a month, I found myself acquiring my third set of dive equipment. Over the past nine years in Iceland, I've meticulously curated distinct gear for both cold and warmer water diving, incorporating some items that serve across both environments when applicable.

In this article, I will discuss each area of dive equipment, following the sequence in which I would prioritize their purchase. I'll explore the rationale behind my recommendations, shedding light on crucial aspects, and I'll also reflect on insights I wish I had prior to making my initial purchases

First Purchase: Mask and Snorkel

In general, masks and snorkels are commonly sold as a set. However, personally, I refrain from using a snorkel during any diving activity. The term "snorkel" inherently suggests its usage for snorkeling rather than diving. Nevertheless, it remains a compulsory part of equipment for most recreational dive courses, thus owning one is crucial. Despite my avoidance of using a snorkel for diving, I still find regular use for it.

Due to the distinct purposes of a snorkel and a mask, I don't advocate purchasing them as a set. Often, this bundled offer is merely a marketing tactic, resulting in two items that may not perfectly suit your needs. Instead, I recommend buying a mask and snorkel separately to ensure they meet your specific requirements.

When selecting a mask, several factors should be taken into account, with the foremost being the fit. There's simply no substitute for trying on masks in person to ensure they are comfortable, fit well, and create a tight seal. Your local dive shop can assist you in this process, and once you find the right one, it's likely to become your preferred choice for years to come.

Additionally, consider whether you prefer a single-frame or two separate eye pieces. While most modern masks feature a single frame, offering an unobstructed view without a lens separator, some divers may prefer a double lens mask for specific reasons, such as needing a prescription mask with separate lenses. If a prescription mask is required, it may be easier to find suitable options with separate lenses, particularly if you can purchase the lenses from your local store.

When it comes to snorkels, I recommend investing in a lightweight, foldable design. These snorkels are convenient for travel, especially since they may only be used occasionally during a trip. Additionally, a flexible snorkel is easier to pack in your suitcase without worrying about damage. Fancy features like valves are unnecessary; they are only needed when snorkeling technique is incorrect.

Purchase Number 2: Fins

Fins come in all shapes, sizes, and types. There are a myriad of different types with all of them claiming some benefit or other, and they are one of the most complex choices to make due to this marketing hype and large range of choice.

However, amidst this diversity, two main types of fins have stood the test of time, largely unchanged for over three decades. Despite experimenting with various pairs over the years, I consistently find myself reverting to these two types as they consistently prove to be the most reliable.

The first type is a traditional, versatile fin suitable for a wide range of diving needs. A prime example is the Mares Avanti Quattro Pro. These fins feature a great blade design ideal for both drysuit and wetsuit diving. Personally, I reserve them for tropical diving. Available in two versions, the open foot variant requires additional boots—ideal for divers who switch frequently between wetsuits and drysuits. Alternatively, the closed foot slip-on version offers convenience, perfect for warmer waters. While several similar fins exist on the market, newer options like the Fourth Element Rec fins provide comparable performance.

For those venturing into drysuit or technical diving, I recommend another type of fin known as "jet fins." These traditional fins are excellent for the more advanced fin kicking techniques like helicopter turns and back finning. Their heavier build also makes them well-suited for drysuit diving. However, I lean towards a lighter version that offers increased flexibility across various diving scenarios. Notable options include the Fourth Element Tec fins and Apeks RK3, both of which are lighter jet fins suitable for tropical diving as well as drysuit use, and are convenient for travel.

Jet fins come as open heel fins, necessitating the purchase of additional boots. This setup allows for seamless transition between drysuit and wetsuit diving. Alternatively, opting for a sturdier 5mm boot ensures compatibility with larger fins, accommodating drysuit boots as well.

Ultimately, if I were to choose only one pair of fins, I'd opt for lighter jet fins, with the Fourth Element Tec fins being my personal favorite, closely followed by the RK3 from Apeks.

Purchase Number 3: A Thermal Suit

We've previously delved into thermal protection in another article, providing an overview of the various types of exposure protection available. For those looking to purchase their first thermal suit, it's crucial to consider the primary diving locations. For instance, if you reside in a warmer water location, investing in an expensive dry suit might not be practical if it will spend most of its time hanging untouched in the wardrobe. In such cases, starting with wetsuits and revisiting dry suits later is advisable. If you live in a cold water location then it’s best to rent a dry suit for some time until you’re really committed to things, so for this part, we will only discuss wetsuits and come back to dry suits later.

For divers primarily indulging in holiday diving, wetsuits are the go-to option. In such scenarios, owning a versatile 5mm wetsuit proves invaluable due to its flexibility across a wide range of temperatures compared to a 3mm suit.

The added thickness of a 5mm wetsuit provides enhanced protection, rendering it suitable for diverse diving conditions. With wetsuits becoming increasingly expensive, owning multiple suits is less feasible for most, making the 5mm option the optimal choice for all-around diving. Even in warmer waters, the 5mm suit remains comfortable, and in case of overheating, switching to a rash guard and shorts offers a simple, cost-effective solution. Opting for a 3mm suit and using it in slightly cooler waters, such as those in Lembeh and Egypt during winter, can result in discomfort. Personally, when the water requires more insulation than my 5mm suit and hood provide, I transition to a drysuit.

When selecting a wetsuit, prioritize quality. A high-quality suit will endure years of use and hundreds of dives, unlike lower-quality alternatives that quickly wear out and lose their thermal effectiveness. There are many good brands to choose from but my preferred choice is the Fourth Element Proteus, renowned for its exceptional quality and durability, having served me well through countless dives over the years.

Purchase Number 4: Regulators

Regulators stand as vital life support equipment, supplying you with the essential breathing gas during your dives. Consequently, compromising on quality in this area isn't advisable. Opting for a high-quality, balanced regulator ensures superior breathing performance. While it may be tempting to seek bargains or consider second-hand options, I strongly advise against it. Even though regulators are serviceable and I personally handle my own maintenance, I advocate for purchasing brand new regulators to ensure reliability and safety.

When selecting regulators, two major considerations come into play: the choice between DIN and Yoke (A clamp) connections, and deciding whether to opt for environmentally sealed regulators suitable for cold water diving or not.

Despite the prevalence of A clamp regulators in the US, my experience using DIN regulators worldwide for over 12 years has shown their adaptability across dive operations. It’s also easy to purchase a yoke adapter, allowing your first-stage to be attached to either type of tank valve. Therefore, I recommend immediately ruling out A clamp regulators in favor of DIN options for their reliability and versatility.

Similarly, when considering environmentally sealed regulators versus warm water-only options, I advocate for future-proofing by investing in environmentally sealed, balanced regulators suitable for cold water diving. Not only does this ensure compatibility with potential future cold water dives, but it also aligns with the quality standards of premium regulators. This choice inherently future-proofs your equipment, especially if you're contemplating venturing into technical diving in the future, as environmentally sealed DIN regulators can seamlessly integrate into such setups.

All of my personal regulators are Apeks MTX-RC regs, which have consistently met my needs across various diving configurations, including single tank, twinset, sidemount, and deco rigs.

Purchase Number 5: A Buoyancy Compensator Device (BCD)

At the onset of my diving journey, I started with a conventional BCD jacket, the standard apparatus for most beginners. As I progressed to becoming an instructor and began traveling more extensively, I transitioned to a hybrid wing. This innovative design retained the jacket-like structure but utilized a wing system with inflation from behind and a softer plate. Subsequently, when I ventured to Iceland, I adopted a more streamlined DIR-style backplate, harness, and wing system, a setup I've since stuck with for all my dives. These three types remain prevalent choices in the diving community today.

Reflecting on my diving experience, I wish I had known to opt for a backplate, harness, and wing system right from the start. This modular setup allows for flexibility, enabling the interchangeability of individual components for different diving scenarios while maintaining a consistent style. Moreover, it's far easier to replace a specific part of the equipment without having to overhaul the entire apparatus in case of component failure, a common issue with traditional BCDs.

The rigid structure of a backplate and wing system offers superior trim, with lift positioned optimally from behind. Adjusting the weight distribution further enhances trim, while the absence of inflation on the sides results in a cleaner and more tidy profile in the water.

A backplate and wing system are versatile, suitable for various diving environments, including technical dives with twinsets, single tank dives, and both warm and cold water dives. However, certain considerations should be taken into account. Firstly, the shape of the wing plays a crucial role. I recommend opting for a donut-shaped wing over a horseshoe shape or one bungeed to lower the profile. Donut-shaped wings ensure optimal air flow around the wing, avoiding air trapping issues common with other shapes.

Secondly, the choice of backplate material is important, with options ranging from aluminum to steel and carbon fiber, available in various thicknesses. For warm water dives, I prefer a carbon fiber backplate by Halcyon, offering strength to support twinsets in tropical waters while remaining lightweight for travel. Conversely, for cold water dives in Iceland's 36-degree (2.2 C) waters, I utilize a 6mm stainless steel backplate, weighing 12 lbs (5.4 kg), which effectively reduces the need for additional lead weight.

Purchase Number 6: Drysuit

Drysuits are commonly thought of as being exclusively used in cold water, they are however much more versatile than this if you buy the correct type. Personally, I only use a 5mm wetsuit, or a drysuit. Any water colder than 77 F degrees (25 C) and I move into a drysuit. The reason I can do this is that I have a trilaminate drysuit that allows for much more flexibility in the types of temperatures of water I can dive in.

There are primarily two types of drysuits: neoprene and trilaminate. Neoprene suits provide inherent thermal protection due to the material's insulation properties. They are cost-effective and ideal for rental purposes in cold-water destinations or for divers sticking to a single water temperature.

On the other hand, trilaminate suits offer no built-in thermal protection, allowing divers to choose appropriate undergarments based on water temperatures. I have two sets of undergarments—one for warmer waters and deco diving, and another for Iceland's frigid conditions. Trilaminate suits offer superior comfort, flexibility, and versatility in terms of accessories and customization options.

After selecting the suit material, I highly recommend investing in a custom-made drysuit. Otter Drysuits, DUI and Fourth Element are reputable brands known for crafting excellent customized drysuits. My personal preference is the Fourth Element Argonaut, tailored to my specifications. Opting for newer silicone wrist and neck seals allows for instant on-site replacement in case of failure, unlike latex or neoprene seals that require several days for replacement and gluing. Silicone seals also offer enhanced comfort, durability, and compatibility with dry gloves, enabling quick and easy installation. Even with dry gloves installed, the suit remains adaptable, allowing the use of wet gloves or no gloves as needed.

In summary, for a top-notch all-around drysuit experience, I recommend a custom-made trilaminate suit with silicone wrists and neck seals.

Conclusion

Given the vast array of options on the market, it's understandable to feel overwhelmed when selecting your diving equipment. However, my advice remains consistent: prioritize future-proofing your gear, regardless of the direction your diving journey may take. Investing in high-quality equipment ensures longevity and reduces the need for frequent replacements. By making informed decisions and opting for the best possible quality within your means, you'll not only extend the lifespan of your equipment but also avoid the hassle of repetitive purchases. Ultimately, this approach ensures a more satisfying and cost-effective diving experience in the long run.