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Adding Creativity to Your Underwater Photography: Using Artistic Filters

In underwater photography, finding ways to stand out creatively is an ongoing pursuit. One increasingly popular method is the use of creative filters—specialized attachments that mount in front of your camera lens. These filters can add unique effects like halos, vortex patterns, and reflections to your images, offering a fresh, artistic perspective.

As with many creative tools, reactions to filtered images can be polarizing (pun intended). Some viewers are drawn to their dreamlike quality; others prefer the purity of a traditional macro or wide-angle shot. And it’s easy, when first experimenting with these filters, to become a little too enthusiastic—snapping dozens of frames through the new effect. A few strong filtered images can add valuable diversity to your portfolio, but it's wise not to overwhelm it. Like any technique, creative filters are most effective when used thoughtfully and sparingly.

There are many filters on the market, most originally developed for topside photography. However, a few have been adapted or specifically designed for underwater use. One such example is the Magic Tube by Saga Dive, a 6-inch (15 cm) aluminum cylinder with a reflective interior surface.

Before a recent trip to Lembeh Strait—widely regarded as one of the world's premier muck diving destinations—I invested in a Halo/Vortex filter. Coincidentally, Byron had also acquired one, along with a few other experimental filters. I also borrowed a friend's Magic Tube for comparison. Conveniently, all of these filters feature a 67mm thread, allowing them to screw directly onto the front of most macro ports commonly used in underwater housings.

While you can screw these filters on and off underwater, I found a more efficient method that avoids potential issues like cross-threading. I attached each filter to a Nauticam bayonet adaptor, allowing them to snap easily onto a Nauticam bayonet mount. This system made it simple to swap filters mid-dive without fumbling or risking damage to the threads. I typically kept the filter with its bayonet adapter attached to one of my float arms for quick access, although storing it in a pocket is another practical option.

In the next section, I'll break down my experience with the filters, how they performed underwater, and tips for getting the most out of them.

The Halo/Vortex/Swirl Filter in Action

The Halo filter, also referred to as a Vortex or Swirl filter, was the one I spent the most time experimenting with. I tested it on a wide range of subjects at various focal distances to better understand how the effect changed under different conditions.

Halo filter mounted inside a Nauticam bayonet adaptor.

In all cases, the center of the image remained sharp and unaffected, while the distortion effect became more pronounced toward the edges of the frame. This characteristic can be particularly useful: in some instances, it transformed a subject that might otherwise feel static or uninspiring into something visually dynamic. The photo of the Moorish idol, for example, showcases how the swirling background draws attention to the subject and adds a sense of motion and energy to the composition.

Moorish idol using Halo filter. Nikon D850, 105mm, 1/250th, f/16, ISO 64

I also experimented with different aperture settings, thinking that a wide-open aperture might enhance the background blur and produce a creamier bokeh effect. However, changing the aperture did not significantly alter the appearance of the swirl created by the filter. The effect seems primarily driven by the physical design of the filter itself, rather than by traditional depth-of-field control.

I found that for subjects on a mucky background, the swirl effect of the filter was a nice way to deal with the distractive background. An example is the photo of the nudibrach, which was fairly large, and just sitting out on black sand.

This nudibranch was sitting out on black sand and the Halo filter did a nice job of just adding a bit of additional swirl to what would otherwise be a boring image.

The filter can also have a more subtle effect when used on smaller subjects but at a distance. For example, the pink eyed goby image below.

Pink-eyed goby with Halo filter.

Overall, the Halo filter proved to be an exciting creative tool, especially for subjects that benefit from a sense of movement or environmental abstraction. As always, subtlety and selective use are key to ensuring these images complement rather than overpower your portfolio.

Thorny seahorse on soft coral. Nikon D850, 105mm, Halo filter, 1/60th, f/10, ISO 200

Exploring the Magic Tube

A light tube—or Magic Tube as Saga Dive brands it—has been around for several years. I know several photographers who have built their own versions using parts sourced from hardware stores. For my tests, I borrowed a production version manufactured by Saga Dive from my friend Paul.

Saga’s Magic Tube mounted onto the macro port

The Magic Tube generates a circular image within the frame, leaving the corners black, similar to the effect seen with a circular fisheye lens. Colors from the subject are reflected within the tube, creating swirling patterns around the center of the frame. The appearance varies with your distance from the subject: closer subjects produce tighter and more intense swirls, while those farther away produce a softer, more diffuse effect.

Pink skunk anemonefish shot with Magic Tube.

Compared to the Halo filter, the swirls produced by the Magic Tube are tighter and more concentrated, giving a different kind of visual impact. Below, you can see the same subject captured with both the Magic Tube and the Halo filter for comparison. All camera settings were the same (1/20th, f/22, ISO 320) - the photos were literally take a minute apart.

Peacock mantis shrimp with eggs, shot with Magic Tube

Peacock mantis shrimp with eggs, shot with Halo filter

This tool, like the Halo, can turn an otherwise simple subject into a more abstract and engaging composition—again, provided it's used selectively within a portfolio.

A Quick Word on the Kaleidoscope Filter

Another filter I tested during the trip was a Kaleidoscope Filter. It became immediately clear after just a few frames that this effect does not translate well to underwater photography. The resulting images were chaotic, heavily fragmented, and visually overwhelming. Instead of enhancing the subject, the multiple reflections and severe distortions made the images difficult and unpleasant to look at.

Lionfish with the Kaleidoscope filter. Horrible - save your money

Wonderpus octopus with Kaleidoscope filter.

I only used the Kaleidoscope filter on one dive before deciding to leave it behind for the remainder of the trip. While it might have creative applications topside where environmental conditions and subjects differ significantly, underwater it proved to be far less effective.

Conclusion

Ultimately, creative filters offer a fun and powerful way to expand your underwater photography toolkit. Used thoughtfully, they can transform an ordinary scene into something extraordinary—but like any artistic tool, moderation and intention are key to making the most of their potential.

 

 

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