Liveaboard Review: Diving Cuba's Jardines de la Reina

Ever since the Oceans for Youth program opened diving access to Cuba, I had heard incredible things about the experience. “This is the best diving in the Caribbean.” “The reefs are pristine!” These bold claims made me curious, but at more than $5,000 for a seven-day Caribbean liveaboard, I felt my money could be better spent elsewhere—after all, a ten-day trip to Indonesia, including airfare from the U.S., costs about the same.

However, when Byron and a few friends planned a trip for February 2025, I decided to join them. Diving with friends always makes a trip better, and this one was organized specifically for underwater photographers. What I found was an overall fantastic experience—not necessarily due to the reefs (more on that below), but because of the photographic opportunities and abundant sharks.

Exploring Jardines de la Reina

Jardines de la Reina, or "Gardens of the Queen," is an expansive marine reserve off Cuba’s southern coast. Named by Christopher Columbus in honor of Queen Isabella of Spain, the archipelago consists of 661 islands and cays stretching along the province of Ciego de Ávila. The closest inhabited settlement is Júcaro, a small coastal town about 60 kilometers away and the port from which all liveaboards depart.

For decades, this remote paradise remained largely untouched, serving as Fidel Castro’s personal diving retreat. Public access was restricted until 1996 when the Cuban government designated the area as a protected marine park. This decision, coupled with strict conservation efforts, has helped preserve the health of its mangroves, seagrass beds, and coral reefs, making it one of the most well-preserved ecosystems in the Caribbean.

Getting to Cuba: Challenges and Logistics

Traveling to Cuba from the U.S. comes with restrictions. You can’t simply book a flight and go; you must travel under an approved category, such as a Humanitarian and Environmental program. Given the shifting policies of the U.S. government, this may become more difficult in the future. For this trip, I joined Backscatter Photo & Video, led by Berkley White (owner of Backscatter) and Erin Quigley (of GoAskErin fame).

Our group was a mix of Americans, Canadians, and Europeans. Many Europeans flew directly to Havana, while most Americans routed through Miami (to either Havana or Camagüey). Havana requires a seven-hour bus ride to the port, while Camagüey, where I flew, is a more manageable three-and-a-half-hour ride. Avalon, the only operator authorized in Jardines de la Reina, arranges bus transfers, but these are not included in the trip price.

If you are flying into Camagüey, you can arrive on Saturday, though there is a risk of flight delays causing you to miss the boat. To avoid this, I recommend arriving at least a day early. This not only provides a buffer against delays but also allows time to relax and explore. Whether you choose to stay in Camagüey or Havana, there’s an opportunity to soak in a bit of Cuban culture. From the iconic 1950s-era cars still in operation to the rich colonial architecture, the experience is a fascinating step back in time. We found Camagüey to be safe for walking at night and enjoyed excellent meals at local restaurants—three of us had a full dinner for just $15 USD total including tip!

The Liveaboard: Jardines Avalon III

Avalon operates six boats in Jardines de la Reina, some dedicated solely to diving and others shared with fly fishermen (yes, I was surprised by this fact too!). Our vessel, the Jardines Avalon III (JAIII), is a 160-foot (49-meter) luxury yacht with 15 staterooms, including four suites with balconies. Each cabin has private bathrooms, air conditioning, and either twin or double beds. The yacht accommodates up to 30 passengers with a crew of 12 and features three panoramic decks, a hot tub, and attentive service.

The trip runs from Saturday to Saturday. Guests embark in the afternoon, with diving starting Sunday morning. The boat navigates back to port on Friday afternoon, and guests disembark early Saturday morning. Meals and drinks are included.

Diving Setup and Schedule

Diving is done from tenders, with the number of tenders based on diver count. Our 24 guests were divided among three tenders, each with two dive guides and a captain. While our group had seven divers per tender, I learned that some trips only have two tenders for 24 divers, meaning 12 per tender. Dive times ranged from 45 to 70 minutes, typically on the longer side, limited only by air consumption.

All diving was on Nitrox, with fills consistently between 30% and 32%. Avalon technically charges extra for Nitrox, but based on their process for filling tanks, air was not easily available and even if you didn’t pay for Nitrox you got it anyway. Tanks are filled on the tenders, and divers analyze their gas before each briefing. Dive gear remains on the tenders, minimizing setup time.

A typical daily schedule:

• 6:00 AM – Breakfast

• 7:15 AM – Dive briefing

• 7:30 AM – First dive

• 10:15 AM – Second dive briefing

• 10:30 AM – Second dive

• 12:00 PM – Lunch

• 3:15 PM – Third dive briefing

• 3:30 PM – Third dive

• 6:00 PM – Dinner

One night dive was offered during the trip. Returning from each dive, crew members excitedly greeted us with warm towels, yelling “HOT TOWEL” as they wrapped it around us—an excellent touch.

A Shark Photographer’s Paradise

Since this was a photography-focused trip, our schedule prioritized capturing images. In some cases, we skipped dives in favor of snorkeling or shooting sharks at the surface during sunset. Bait boxes were deployed from the tenders on nearly every dive to attract sharks, and we often had five to fifteen silky and Caribbean reef sharks around us at all times. If you love photographing sharks, this trip is ideal.

Another ecosystem within the marine reserve is the mangrove forest. The mangroves are teeming with juvenile creatures and serve as a shelter for countless species. We had the opportunity to either dive or snorkel within the mangroves, offering a different perspective on the vibrant underwater life beyond the reefs.

Reef Condition: Not as Pristine as Advertised

Given the glowing reports about Jardines de la Reina, I was surprised by the state of the reefs. In the summer of 2023, Cuba experienced a severe heatwave, pushing water temperatures at 90 feet (27 meters) to 93°F (34°C), causing widespread coral bleaching. This devastated elkhorn, pillar, and other hard corals. While sponges, sea fans, and reef life remain, calling these the Caribbean’s “most pristine reefs” today is misleading. In comparison, the North Wall of Grand Cayman or St. Lucia’s reefs are in better shape.

Fortunately, fish life remains healthy. Caribbean reef and silky sharks are plentiful, and we encountered Nassau and black groupers, two friendly goliath groupers, and an abundance of spiny lobsters. Schools of snapper and French grunts were common and we also had a massive school of horse-eye jacks pass through. Like much of the Caribbean, lionfish are present, and our guides used Hawaiian slings to cull them, often feeding them to sharks or goliath groupers.

Crocodiles: Not the Icon We Expected

If you've seen photos from Jardines de la Reina, you’ve probably come across images of a large American crocodile amongst the mangroves. Until the week after our trip, no large crocodiles had been seen in over a year. On our trip, we only encountered a skittish four-foot (1.2 meter) long crocodile named Yuki. However, just a week later, a large croc was spotted again. While this is promising, if you're planning a visit hoping to capture an iconic croc shot, it's best to temper expectations.

Liveaboard Experience: Accommodations, Crew, and Food

For underwater photographers, JAIII provides ample space for camera gear. We had 24 photographers with large setups and found enough room for all our equipment. A dedicated rinse tank is available as you board the ship from the tenders to rinse your camera. Charging stations are located in the lounge, as charging batteries in cabins is prohibited.

Food was excellent, with buffet-style meals catering to various dietary needs. One guest with gluten allergies received specially prepared meals. The crew was eager to please, making for a comfortable stay. Cabins were well-appointed with ensuite bathrooms, daily fresh towels, and laundry service available three times during the week.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed this trip. The group was fantastic, the dive guides were exceptional, and the boat and crew exceeded expectations. The chance to photograph sharks at both the surface and on the reef was a highlight. However, the condition of the reefs was disappointing, and it’s surprising that this isn’t widely discussed beforehand.

Based on discussions I had with other divers at the airport, experiences on different boats varied. Some divers found themselves sharing their vessel with more fishermen than divers, while others had their dives cut short due to inexperienced buddies consuming air quickly. This underscores the importance of choosing the right itinerary and group organizer based on your priorities.

Would I return? Absolutely, but because of the opportunity to dive with loads of sharks, not because of the vibrant coral reefs.

Backscatter Photo & Video run their trips every year so if you are interested in going, reach out to either myself or Byron and we’ll give you some more tips and get you hooked up!